Saturday, August 13, 2011

Corn Porridge: An Honest Bread

If you think the grass is greener on the other side, you can bet your eye teeth that it's brown. An elementary nugget of wisdom that should be stuffed into the breast of every woman and man upon entry into this life.



I have nothing against striving, but to do so while devaluing what you presently have is an affront to the Gods.


These are the things I think during long walks with the dog, while I'm elbow-deep in dough, when I'm trying to understand what all this is meant to be about, because in my view, the experience of living is not supposed to be one-dimensional, superfluous, or artificially constructed. And it's definitely not something meant to be glazed over or labored through. This, otherwise known as stagnation and denial, ill regard for reality.


People suggest, often, that I live in my head. My response: And whose rather should I? I can't imagine such vast territory willfully left unexplored.


I always wonder about people who run away from the contents of their very own head. Like messy attics, these, buzzing about metropolitan areas and those pastoral alike, sucking up more bits of self-deception to stuff into the dark little pockets, some endless feet deep. If ones attic is not fit for thine own self, how then can one expect another to willingly have a visit, or furthermore, to find it pleasant enough to stay a while? And here's a luxurious bit of information for those who may not be privy to the damp little places inside: It is only dark if you don't open the door of discovery and let in at least a sliver of light. The boogie man in our brains has been given unfettered reign, and it's high time that it be exposed for what it is: A tricky little self-deception whose sustenance is the shadows that we willingly supply.


Listen, I know that this is difficult to hear, that our own mind holds the power to move us unto a more liberated existence, and that the trade for such is that one must be willing to live in self-honesty, and 100% of the time. But t
here is no integrity in deceiving oneself, and there is no other way to achieve such freedom. Of this I am certain. It seems elementary, that one be honest with themselves, and that there should not be a great struggle in this rudimentary pursuit. The truth is, it takes a great deal of effort to be consistently self-honest, because self-honesty is the recognition of life as it is, wholly lacking the bells and whistles and embellishments that we have so become addicted to.



These embellishments have the glamour of such pacifying ease, promising fulfillment if one manage only to wade over the surface of life's waters, never asking for explanation of that which lies below in the deep. 
But the horrifying reality is that one must constantly fight to stay afloat. These embellishments ask for us to go against our intrinsic nature to explore our immeasurable depths. For, we are categorically drawn to explore the whole of our existence. Divers, we are, and naturally so. To fight this congenital inclination only wreaks havoc on the spirit. It is like denying a bird the privilege of flight, a fish, ample waters in which to swim.

Inevitably, the pursuit of a superficially embellished existence perpetuates a stealthy gloom that when left to seep, can perfume one's life with such a dismal funk that it is hard to see beyond the miasma. And when one is blinded by the empty promises of self-deception, it is impossible to live a life of pure intent. It is true that dishonesty is the bell that lulls us into the womb of delusive complacency, and fantasy is the whistle the provides the ensuing and consuming undercurrent of discontent.



Which brings us to bread. How so?

Today, ours is made with a porridge of ground corn, a food of the humblest origin, an honest one that fed our predecessors who never had the luxury of self-delusion. This did not turn out the most lofty bread I've ever baked, and at first I was skeptical about posting its review. But here we are, meeting at the Tartine Bread Experiment after all, and experimentation begs thorough contemplation rather than snap judgments. Experimentation asks us to be honest, so that we may grow within that which we are trying to understand.



While this loaf did not have exhilarating oven spring, the flavor was wholly addictive. And as the days went on, my friends and I all found that we could not stop eating it. We ate it plain, we ate it with figs, we ate it with with arugula and slices of chicken roasted the night before. It was a dense loaf, but not disagreeably so, and one that was uber moist. The flavor was nutty, corny, serious and casual all at once, and as you can see, it turned out to be oh so pretty in a rustic way. Once I let go of suppositions, I understood its merits and saw its beauty until it was simply this gorgeous bread that mysteriously grew more and more pleasing every day. It also turned out to be more complex than many of the other loaves I've ever baked, and allowed me to alter my idea of what good, sound bread truly is. This is indeed a loaf of peasant heritage, one without the luxury of lofty delusions.

Whatever the outcome, and against whatever standard it is measured, one thing is certain: I do not know a more honest bread than this, and I certainly cannot think of one that I've made that has begged as much contemplation and challenged my own illusions.


Porridge Bread with Sunflower Seeds & Rosmarino

Gather together these humble things:

200g ripe levain
900g bread flour
100g whole wheat flour
700g + 50g water (50g optional, see notes)
25g salt
1 cup sunflower seeds, toasted, plus 1 - 2 cups more, raw, for coating the proofing 
boules
1 cup coarse polenta
2 cups boiling water
3 TB extra virgin olive oil
1 heaping TB fresh rosemary leaves, chopped fine



MAKE THE LEVAIN

The night before: 1 TB ripe 100% hydration starter mixed with 100g water and 50g each whole wheat and AP flour. Left to ferment overnight.

THE SOAKER & THE SEEDS

The day of: toasted 1 cup sunflower seeds, set aside to cool. Soaked 1 cup coarse polenta with 2 cups boiling water. Set aside to absorb the water, and cool.



MIX THE DOUGH AND AUTOLYSE

Dissolved the levain with 700g water, then mixed in 900g KA bread flour with 100g whole wheat flour. Autolysed 40 minutes.

FERMENTATION/TURNS

Mixed 25g of salt, 50g water, and 3 TB olive oil into the dough. I use this as my opportunity to work the gluten, because with subsequent turns, I handle the dough more gently to maintain the aeration that it develops over time. Let rest for 50 minutes.

After this 50 minutes, performed a series of turns every half hour for the first two hours. The first turn is where I added the cooled polenta, the toasted seeds and 1 rounded tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves chopped fine. The last turns were performed with a more gingerly hand. The dough was pretty intense. It was like a huge bowl of corn jello, and I was a little nervous.

This amounted to 2 hours and 50 minutes of fermentation and turns at room temperature. 

Immediately after the last turn, popped the dough into the fridge for 1 hour 10 minutes, for a total fermentation time of 4 hours.



SHAPING & PROOFING

The dough was a beast if ever there was one. It took on a life of its own. It was heavy, not as much slack as it was...energized and lacking structure. I divided it in half, shaped this half for a full-sized boule, then I divided and shaped the remaining half into smaller boules. I did not give the dough a bench rest.

I rolled the dough in raw sunflower seeds, and placed it face down into a linen-lined bannetonThe dough then proofed in the fridge for 4 hours, and I baked the boules right from cold.

THE ROASTING OF THE LOAF

Preheated the oven to 500 degrees, along with two combo cookers, then inverted the loaves onto a piece of parchment waiting on the peel. I slid the loaves into oven, popped the lids of the combo cookers in place, then turned the oven down to 450 degrees. The small loaves roasted for 15 minutes covered, then another 25 uncovered. The medium loaves took 50 minutes, 30 covered, then another 20 uncovered. The largest took about an hour, maybe even an hour and 5. Again, 30 covered, and the remainder of the time uncovered.



VERDICT

Crust: A little thicker and chewier than I thought it would be. But still pleasant. Definitely not difficult. Crumb: Dense, but tender due to the high hydration. Definitely not rubbery.Very moist. Flavor: Outstanding. Substantially improved with age. Rich with toasted seed and corn flavor. Very earthy. Rosemary lent lovely floral highlights. This loaf is best when left to mature for a day, even two, sort of like Germans mature their ryes for one or two days before eating. Temperament of dough: A beast. It swelled to incredible proportions. It was gelatinous, unruly, very, very hydrated. It was like working with rye. It was a little frightening, actually, during the turns. My hand would totally disappear in the dough. I didn't think this bread was going to work, and I refrigerated it partially to tame it, because I knew it was going to spread if I did not. Notes/changes that I might make: I must say that I love this bread. And I didn't at first, but my reasons why are explained above. Now that I've experienced it, I would make it again and again as is. Though even if I changed nothing else, I would definitely not shape the boules into anything smaller than a normal-sized boule, because the crust was very bold and required a greater proportion of crumb to compensate for its chewiness. For experiment's sakeI think it would be interesting for experiment's sake to try: soaking the polenta overnight next time. I might experiment with finer grinds. I might not add the 50g of water that I added to disperse the salt, or/in addition, I might drain the polenta before adding to the dough for a bit. I might experiment with decreasing the amount of polenta too, or, fright of all frights, maybe even adding a touch of vital wheat gluten, though I would be cautious of this. Part of this bread's charm is its density, and the assertive, earthy flavor given the high hydration and the addition of corn and seeds. The flavor was incomparable. So, any changes that I might make would be isolated and small, with every effort to maintain the charms that kept me nibbling on this bread for many more days than I have any other.

To the staff of life!

This porridge bread post was humbly submitted to Wild Yeast Blog's Yeast Spotting.

Thursday, August 4, 2011

buddha's bread

Small bites. Baby steps. One thought, breath, one moment at a time. When we break life down into small, manageable bits, it's easier to digest. Although this observation is not empirically realized in my own. I have an egregious habit of gobbling up life and skipping steps, running as fast as I can. It's because I feel as though my life will abruptly run out, and I might find myself floating around some vaporized world lamenting that I had not chosen the blue pill, or was that the red? I hope the feeling is not an ominous forecast.


Whatever pill I should have had, I do feel lately like my life needs a good feng shui-ing because my yin is beating the crap out of my yang and scrambling up the harmony.


Feng shui is one of those 'modern' Chinese concepts that's actually centuries old. The Chinese are so good at timeless strategies. Our grandmothers feng shui-ed every spring without even realizing it. Out with the clutter, arrange what is left, and for god's sake, keep the toilet seat down at all times, because if you don't, your good energy just goes funneling down the pipes. But everyone knows that. That's feng shui 101, after all.


I have begun my feng shui project by trying to meditate my days into pieces the size of a Triscuit® in effort to organize my scrambled soul, and perchance to meet up with Buddha, whom I've heard is hovering about somewhere, making himself available for private counseling sessions. He has an open door policy, I am told, all you need do is close your eyes.


It was Buddha who said that our time would be better spent if we stopped whining over the past, and woke up and smelled the beans because likewise, there is no such thing as something that has not yet come to pass. Don't you feel silly now, for padding that retirement plan. Spend your money now, Buddha says, you're saving up for an illusion of your own contrivance with all that.


Tricky thing, time. Because it doesn't really exist, but then, it rules everything.


I am intrigued by those who avail themselves the luxury of 'taking their time'.  These few, clever in their ability to allow thoughts and experiences fully macerate so that they can lazily effloresce into the most striking blossoms which will further produce such a surplus of fruit that one could veritably share the whole lot with the world and never run low.


Buddha asks us to have a look at time as existent only within the moment. How rude of the Universe, then, to install the human creature with aggravations such as guilt, the ability to reflect and to also anticipate, a myriad of emotions that would suggest that time is a multi-headed beast to be wrestled to the ground and subdued under the heel of one's boot with one's most Puritanical instinct.


Trying to grasp the arcane meaning of temporal reality is not something in which I am admirably skilled. For those who lack genius in this area too, I will say that this much I know is true: When it is not readily apparent how one should think or feel or behave in an experience that requires the adept of a seasoned sage, in the very least we can yank off pieces of the conundrum and nibble at what's in hand.


If we look at the loaf of life as a whole, it may seem unconquerable. But then, maybe that's my problem. Perhaps life is not here for us to subdue under the heels of our boots. Maybe it is here so that we can contemplate its splendor in this moment, without the hamper of things past, things that might be, these things that wholly don't exist, and therefore don't matter at all.

Pecan-Walnut Sourdough Batards, In The Here & Now


These loaves were made using the Tartine Bread Book's country sourdough formula, which you must run out to purchase at once, because it's pretty damned amazing, and has helped to make it look as though I actually know what I'm doing with this whole bread thing. I don't.

Here's your list of supplies:

200g levain
700g + 55g h2o
900g KA bread flour
100g KA whole wheat flour
20g salt
2 TB best quality walnut oil, plus some for brushing the loaves
3 cups toasted pecans and walnuts


MAKE THE LEVAIN

Make the levain the night before you plan to make the bread comme รงa: Mix 1 TB ripe starter (I used my rye, 100% hydration starter), with 100g filtered water and 50g each white flour and whole wheat flour.

MIX THE DOUGH AND AUTOLYSE

The next morning I mixed my bubbly levain with 700g h2o, 900g bread flour, and 100g whole wheat flour. I let this autolyse for 40 minutes. I then sprinkled the salt over the dough, along with 55g of h2o and 2 TB super nutty walnut oil and incorporated it all.

FOUR HOUR FERMENT:

After the addition of the salt and oil, I let the dough rest for 30 minutes. I then performed four sets of turns every 30 minutes for the first 2 hours of the ferment. After the turns, I let the dough ferment in the fridge for the remainder of the fermentation time. So, 2.5 hours room temp, and 1.5 hours in the fridge.

THE SHAPING ETC.

I divided the dough into 5 equal parts and shaped them into tight boules. I let them rest on the bench for 30 minutes. I then shaped the dough into razor sharp batards, using Susan at Wild Yeast's handy video as a guide. I popped these batards into the fridge and let them proof in there for a while. They proofed in the fridge for 2 hours and 35 minutes, then another 45 minutes room temp while the oven preheated to 500 degrees.

THE ROASTING OF THE LOAF

I first brushed the loaves with walnut oil, because it sounded decadent and, well, why not. I baked them with steam for the first 15 minutes like this: pop loaves in oven, spray with water bottle, toss ice water in a blazing hot cast iron pan that had been heating in the bottom of the oven, close oven door quickly. (Oh, and here I turned the oven down to 450). Repeated the drenching/water tossing again after 5 minutes. And once more after another 5. I dumped any water that was left in the cast iron pan after the 15 minute mark.  They baked for, I think, another 15 minutes till sorrel colored.


VERDICT:

Crust: thin and brittle. Crumb: Probably the best texture I have achieved thus far. Tender, moist, and the flavor was incomparable. Very nutty, complex. Temperament of dough: Easy peasy. Notes: I toggled fermentation between room temp and fridge because it was warm yesterday. I executed the turns at room temp, then shaped the dough, had a bench rest, and refrigerated the proofing loaves. Changes for future: there is no future. These loaves are perfect, here, in this moment.



Buddha's Bread: The Deleted Photos


















To the staff of life!


Thanks to Susan at Wild Yeast Blog for her video on how to shape a pointy batard. This post was sent to her care, at Yeast Spotting.

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